Developed
by

Great Planes Spirit Elite

by Klaus Weiss..........reviewed 12/99

CONSTRUCTION

Heathcote Soaring League

A brief overview is all that is required here, as the booklet covers assembly quite well. A bit more text in the explanation of various sequences would assist, but you can't really go wrong, so long as you plan ahead and reference the steps in the book, in association with the plan. The plan also has a lot of parts information written on it, which are not shown in the instruction booklet.

When assembling the wings, the die-cut balsa shearweb strip, doesn't start until rib W3. Don't ask how I figured this out. Look at the plans!! - I cut a new strip. It is a good idea to assemble all parts prior to gluing, and the interlocking tabs on this kit allow you to do just that. When satisfied with the fit, then you can safely glue it together.

When assembling the fuselage, begin by holding both sides together and, if necessary, sand them so that you get identical pieces. Ensure you assemble a left and right side, when you glue on the balsa doublers. I suggest paying attention to the wing seat area, and sand it so that it is the same on both sides. Again after you glue on the ply wing saddles. You don't want the wing tilting because of a bad fit in the saddle. Continue with the assembly of the fuselage. Prior to gluing on the top, insert the clear nylon antenna tube in the holes through the formers. Makes it easier to slide the antenna through when installing the radio gear, towards the end. I also found after assembly, that the rudder and elevator tubes flex unacceptably as they are employed, particularly at the servo end. I would suggest that you make up a couple of braces, similar to the part F17, and run the outer tubes through them, where there is a evidence of flexing of he unsupported tube. Solid pushrods are another option.

As for the supplied 10-24 wing bolts, I couldn't find a tap with that thread in any of the hobby shops I tried, nor could I locate additional nylon Great Planes bolts with that thread. I had to use 10-32 tap and bolts, which are readily available. I also found, retrospectively, that the plywood wing bolt plates were a little 'soft' for my liking and didn't take to thread cutting as well as I would have hoped. It may pay to replace it with a spruce or maple block or similar. It is probably o.k. if a 10-24 tap is used, but for the fine thread of the nylon wing bolts I had to use, they may pull through. Maybe not, but I would be happier with a more solid block. (they did pull through after the first couple of flights)

On the wings, take some time and care with lining up the TE stock and tip block, to the rib contour. You need to sand the leading edge of the stock to achieve this, and then also the flap and ailerons to match. If you are constructing the polyhedral version, it should be easier. When slotting the W1A ribs for the wing dowels, try and ensure they line up with the locating holes for fuselage former, F13. As mentioned previously, we are looking for a snug fit in the wing saddle. Trial fit the servo covers so that you can have a near perfect fit. Gaps look unsightly and are not very aerodynamically efficient.